FOR a while, Launceston has been calling out for something new, innovative and exciting to establish itself in the town and finally, it might just have that.  

Native Burger opened its doors this summer to a flurry of praise from all who ventured to give it a try.  

During August, it was impossible to live in Launceston without hearing word of this new restaurant, offering up an array of stylish burgers. Not one to turn down trying something new, I thought I’d head over and see what the hype was all about.  

Opened by Luke Taylor in the premises of the former Phillip Warren’s Deli on Westgate Street. The site has been transformed into a hip and modern space. 

Luke has worked in the food industry for more than twenty years, training and working with a variety of different organisations, most recently with Phillip Warren’s Butchers – pride of the town, and whom the restaurant has an association.  

Walking towards the renovated site, it’s hard for it not to catch your eye, with its bold black walls, modern interior, and stylish design.  

Fitted with an open kitchen, residents are given a peak inside of a youthful and friendly team, who, by the sounds of it have been working nonstop since opening.

When you hear about a ‘burger place’ - as they are so often referred – it might be easy to have visions of grey looking patties, stacked with far too many accoutrements. Does anybody need a burger with six patties, mac and cheese, bacon and a kitchen sink? 

However, it is safe to say, this is absolutely not one of those places.

Speaking to Luke, his passion for the town and his passion for food shines through, as we discussed his decision to pursue burgers as the focus.

He explained: “Burgers are great because they appeal to such a wide audience. Whether you’re hard up or if you’re quite affluent, burgers really cross those boundaries and I think that’s really why I chose burgers.

“In my opinion lots of people do them but don’t do them very well, and I know that I have such a culinary experience which means I can get some great flavours and get nice balance, and really use the best of the core ingredients that you can get your hands on.”

Hearing the thought and passion for what could be disregarded as a simple foodstuff, I opted for dealer’s choice, with Luke at the wheel of my dining experience.  

After a short wait, sat at one of the restaurant’s several tables, I was greeted by the ‘Tequila Slammer Burger’.  

Barbacoa pulled beef, a beef patty, lettuce, pickled red onion, Cornish slaw, dressed with a chipotle and tequila mayo, all delicately balanced between a soft brioche bun. 

With the big stack in front of me, taking a knife and fork to it might be considered, however, this really is something that needs to be tackled hands on.  

Within the first bite, I was hooked.  

Its sweetness, sourness and spice mingle in your mouth before the succulence and meatiness of both the patty and pulled brisket take over.  

For a burger with a lot going on, there isn’t a single thing I would remove. Each element plays its part and can be tasted in each bite.  

However, despite the impressive flavour, the true highlight was texture.  

For me, there is nothing more important than texture in a meal – the balance between soft and crisp, tender and chewy. 

The brilliance of this burger comes from the brisket, which has been charred on the grill alongside the beef patty, ensuring that each wisp, end and corner are crisped, providing that perfect bite.  

This is a real, adult burger.  

Up next was the ‘Sweet and Sticky Buttermilk Fried Chicken Tenders”.  

With the option of three or five tenders, three beautifully golden pieces made their way to the table.  

There is a risk with items such as wings, nuggets, and tenders that they become considered only a side dish, however, there is no chance of that with chicken of this quality.  

These crispy battered strips are coated in barbecue sauce, crispy fried onions, and chives and they are a treat.

Tender, juicy, and crisp, these strips are beautiful. Coated in a batter not dissimilar to a panko crumb, this is another level compared to your basic fried chicken.

Finally, my meal was rounded off with a generous portion of ‘Piggy Deluxe Fries’.  

A pile of crispy chips, topped with smoked bacon bits, cheese sauce, grated mozzarella and cheddar cheese.

These certainly have the social media seal of approval, an inviting plate just asking to have its picture taken.

However, despite its visual appeal, the chips didn’t quite reach the heights of the rest of the meal for me.

While each other item I had tried was brilliantly balanced, this one fell down slightly. The chips themselves were nearing on perfect – crisp and fluffy – but it was the toppings which took away from them.  

Cheese and chips is often a winning combination, however, this lacked the balance which shone so brightly throughout the rest of the meal.

The mozzarella and cheddar were nice additions and provided the ever-desired cheese pull, however, I felt the cheese sauce and bacon bits overtook each bite with saltiness.

Though this is not all doom and gloom, small changes could elevate this dish to the levels of the rest of the menu. It’s a dish that is just waiting to shine.

Native Burger may finally be bringing some much-needed innovation to a town centre in need of love and has already made its mark with locals and those further afield – while dining, two individuals even expressed that they had travelled from Truro just to give it a try.

With a friendly atmosphere and staff who care about food and the area’s future, it is an asset to the town.  

The food is offering something which has not yet been seen in this area, to a fantastic quality, elevating otherwise simple ingredients to a new level.  

I implore you to give it a try, I promise you won't be disappointed.  

4/5 stars.